 | CAGE - Chameleons have
varied needs depending on their native habitat and behavior. It is important to
learn as much about your chameleon and it's natural environment in order to help you
select the right cage style and size. (See ENCLOSURES
for more information) |
| PLANT - Most
chameleons spend their entire lives living in shrubs and trees. Plants provide a
sense of security as well as a "home" within their enclosure. Leaves
provide an excellent surface for water droplets which the chameleon will drink from. (See PLANTS and BRANCHES for more information) |
| BRANCHES - Within the
enclosure, there should be branches for your chameleon to climb back and forth on.
Branches with different widths and angles make it possible for your chameleon to exercise
it's grip. Precaution should be used when selecting branches, as some may originate
from trees and plants that are toxic. Make sure you wash all branches you plan to
use with a good anti-bacterial soap and water solution. Rinse thoroughly. (See PLANTS and BRANCHES for more information) |
| MISTING BOTTLE -
Gently mist the plant within your chameleon's enclosure, one or more times a day
(depending on the needs of your particular species). Your chameleon will drink the
water droplets left on the leaves and the spraying and misting also helps to add essential
humidity. Routinely clean your misting bottle so bacterial growth can be avoided.
(See WATERING for more information) |
| WATER DRIPPER - Tree
dwelling chameleons do not perceive "standing water" as other ground dwelling
herps do. They recognize "water in motion" and a dripper helps to simulate
this. Drippers provide additional water over an extended period of time, as opposed
to water droplets from misting, which evaporate quickly . (See WATERING for more information) |
| FEEDING CUP (if
necessary) - Chameleons are predatory animals that enjoy "hunting" for their
food. We free range feed whenever possible. For cages that are not
"insect proof", cup feeding can help prevent feeder insects from INVADING your
living space! Feeding cups can be made from simple plastic deli cups with 2 holes
punched in the sides and twist ties for attaching. Tuck in ends of twist ties after
securing. Be sure that feeding cups are cleaned daily. (See FEEDING
for more information) |
| LIGHTING AND HEATING -
A spot lamp fixture with an incandescent bulb and correct wattage will provide the
necessary heat needed for chameleons. When kept indoors, chameleons should also have
access to a UVB/UVA light source. These can be purchased as florescent or
incandescent bulbs. Florescent lighting does not emit the necessary heat for
basking, so a separate basking site provided by an incandescent bulb (in a spot lamp
fixture), is essential. Basking sites should be in one corner of the enclosure so
you can provide a gradient temperature range within the living space. Your chameleon
needs the ability to move away to cooler spots when desired. Lights can be placed on
simple timing devises so they come on and off automatically. We recommend 12 hour
day/night cycles in the summer and 10 hour day/night cycles in the winder (as the days are
shorter). (See LIGHTING/HEATING for more information) |
| THERMOMETER - There is
only one way to know whether or not your chameleon's temperature requirements are being
met . . . check it with a thermometer. This is an inexpensive, yet necessary
tool for keeping chameleons happy, healthy and ALIVE. Don't miss this important
step. (See LIGHTING/HEATING for more information) |
| SUPPLEMENTS - Due to
the lack of scientific research, nutritional supplementation for chameleons in captivity,
is largely a mystery. This is an area of chameleon care that must be determined
individually by the chameleon keeper. The needs of individual chameleons can vary
depending on their life stage (i.e. growing babies, egg laying females, mature adult males
etc.). The conventional wisdom is that both a vitamin and calcium supplement should
be provided to captive chameleons. (See SUPPLEMENTATION
for more information) |
